TRAINING TIP:

Don't always turn your horse loose or put him back in his stall as soon as his lesson is over. Whenever you have the time to stay around, tie him up and let him learn a little patience. At first, he'll probably fidget and paw the ground, maybe even chew on his lead rope or whinney a lot. Let him. Don't pay any attention unless he starts doing something potentially dangerous like rearing or pulling back on his halter. If he starts being stupid, yell at him. I like to use a sharp "uh, uh!" It's something my horses learn from their first round pen session and they know it means "cut it out!" If he doesn't stop, make a sharp sound by clapping your hands together loudly, slapping something against a barn wall, or kick the side of your wheelbarrow. Startle him into looking at you. As soon as he looks at you, the stupid behavior will stop and you should immediately praise him in a pleasant voice. Then go back to what you were doing and ignore him again.

What if he refuses to stop when you tell him to? Walk closer to him and repeat your "uh, uh!" command. Do whatever it takes, short of hitting him, to make him listen to you. What if he stops momentarily then starts right back being stupid? Correct him again. And again. And again, if necessary. Probably he'll eventually stop and go back to fidgeting or pawing, which is okay for now. Those little annoyances will go away when he learns that they won't make you untie him any sooner.

If you have other horses to work, tie him up where he can watch. You'd be surprised what horses can learn by observing other horses. For example, by watching other horses driving, he'll start to accept that the cart isn't dangerous. As I tell my guys, "Horses all over the world do this everyday. Get used to it." Getting to watch other horses work gives your horse a chance to "get used to it."

Training your Mini to drive LESSON #3 - more long line work

In the previous lesson, you learned how to teach your horse to walk, turn, stop, and back a few steps on long lines. Today, we're going to build upon that lesson. Start with your horse in his open (blinkerless) bridle and surcingle. Practice what he has already learned by ground driving him around the pen several times each direction. Practice his whoa a few times and ask him to back again. Hopefully, today he'll back more willingly and perhaps a few more steps than before.

Now it's time to start teaching him his gaits. Use whatever verbal cue you prefer to ask him to trot. Myself, I use two or three clucks for "walk" and several fast clucks for trot. I also teach my horses the words "walk" and "trot," and it's never too early to start using those words. For now, use whatever command you prefer and encourage him to trot. It doesn't matter at this point how fast or slow he trots as long as he's not totally out of control. In other words, if he trots too fast, let him, just don't let him run away with you. If he just jogs, that's okay for the first time or two, but watch out for a tendency to stop or break to a walk. If you ask him to trot, even at this early stage in his training, he should trot at least a round or two of the pen. Try to slow him to a walk or stop him before he quits on you. If you sense that he's going to stop on his own in 5 seconds, tell him "whoa" in 3 seconds. It needs to be your idea, not his. If you can't keep him from breaking before you slow him down, then encourage him to trot again for at least several strides before you ask him to slow down or stop.

As he improves in his understanding of the lesson, start incorporating a few changes of speed. Ask him to walk for one or two rounds of the pen, then trot him for awhile, then bring him back to a walk. Use your verbal cues first, then use your reins, either to pull him to a slower speed or jiggling against his hip to ask him to speed up. You want him to really listen. Teach him that if he slows down when you ask him verbally, you won't pull on his mouth. And if he speeds up when you ask him to, he won't feel the line slapping his butt.

Work him only long enough to accomplish your goal for today, which is to get him to walk, trot, and stop reasonably well on command. He won't be perfect, of course, but don't stop until you feel he has a reasonable understanding of the lesson. Resist the urge to ground drive him for a hour. He'll only get frustrated if he thinks he's doing what you want and not getting the reward of getting to stop working.

NOTE: The shetland in the photo has been ground driving a few times and is already in the harness, not the surcingle. That's why the lines are so high. When your horse is just starting, run the lines through the lowest rings on your surcingle and let the outside line drape around behind him, between his hip and his hind leg.

Training your Mini to drive LESSON #2 - Teaching your horse to long line

Long-lining means to ground drive your horse while walking beside or behind him. It's an important step that can't be omitted or rushed. Take your horse to your safe work area and put him in his surcingle. From this step on, I use a home-made "work bridle" consisting of a bridle with browband and side checks but nothing else. See the photo for details of this bridle. You can also use a blinker-less driving bridle, but I strongly recommend that you don't use blinkers yet. I want your horse to see and get used to everything around him, including you and the swaying long lines. You'll want to fasten the side checks VERY loosely, just enough to keep him from dragging his nose in the dirt. I start all of my horses in a french link bit, which I feel lies better in their mouth and won't poke the roof of their mouth when rein pressure is applied. For horses that continually get their tongue over the bit, I'll switch to a copper mullen, adjust so that it causes a nice wrinkle at each corner of the mouth.

My lines are made of either light-weight rope or flat 1 1/2" wide nylon and they're extra long. 12 feet is a good length, allowing you to stay a safe distance away from you horse and giving you plenty of extra rein to play out in case your horse tries to pull away from you. Note that I recommend using a surcingle or crupper-less harness for this step. If your horse gets confused and winds himself up in the reins (which he likely will), you don't have to worry about him breaking your crupper. The worst that will happen is that the surcingle will slide forward onto his neck or withers. If that happens, simple reposition it and continue with the lesson.

Before you start teaching him to ground drive, test his responsiveness to the bit by flexing him a few times to each side. When he's giving his head willingly, run your long lines through the lowest rings on your surcingle, step several feet behind him, and cluck.

He's not going to understand at first and will likely try to turn to face you. Keep your lines low so that the one coming from the far side of your horse drapes around his hindquarters just below the hip. That way, when you pull on that rein to turn his head away from you, the pressure on his hip will help him to understand. At first, you might only get a step or two of forward motion before he tries to turn toward you again. During those few forward steps, keep your rein contact very light as a reward. As soon as he tries to turn to face you again, pull one rein to turn his head away again and cluck.

The other response you might get is for him to try to run off. Hold on firmly and steer him toward the fence while saying "whoa." Don't yell it and don't panic. You're in a small pen and can easily stop him, even if it means bumping his nose into the fence. No matter what it takes to stop him, let him settle for a minute then cluck again. Today, on this first attempt to long line, you need to succeed. And you can. Just don't lose your cool and give him time to figure it all out.

Eventually, whether it takes 5 minutes or 30, you'll get him walking around the pen with you behind him or slightly off to one side. Once he's going forward freely, let him. Don't try to stop or turn him just yet. Let him adjust to the idea of walking away from you. After a few rounds of the pen, gently pull on the outside rein and ask him to turn into the fence. Keep the line low so that the pressure on his hip reinforces your command. As soon as he commits to the turn, relax the rein pressure as a reward and cluck, asking him to go around the other way of the pen. Let him go a few times around then pull the outside rein, down low still, turn his head toward the fence, and ask him to turn. When he's moving freely, you can either remain behind him or step toward the inside of the pen, keeping your inside rein shorter and your outside rein longer.

I'd do this at least 2 or 3 times each direction - enough to make certain that he's starting to understand but not enough to frustrate him. Now, you're ready to teach him to stop. Adjust your position so that you're behind him, tell him "Whoa," and gently apply pressure to both reins. If he doesn't stop, turn his nose into the fence and tell him whoa again. Eventually, no matter how long it takes, he will stop. As soon as he does, instantly relax your rein pressure as a reward. If he starts forward again before you ask, repeat the whoa command and make him stop again. Do not jerk on the reins or raise your voice. Just work steadily and quietly until he comes to a complete stop.

Let him settle then ask him to go forward again. This time, let him go only halfway around the pen then ask him to stop again. Repeat this a couple more times to be certain that he's starting to get it.

Before you stop for the day, we're going to teach your horse to back up. With him standing quietly, gently pull backwards on both reins and tell him "back." Do not try to force him back or jerk the reins. Just take a firm feel of his mouth and hold it there. Don't keep increasing the pressure. More than likely, after a minute or two of enduring the pressure, your horse will move one foot backwards. As soon as you see the foot starting backwards, release the rein pressure. After a second or two, apply the same amount of pressure again and say "back." As before, as soon as one foot starts backwards, release the pressure. Try to get 4 to 5 steps backwards, one step at a time if needed, before you quit for the day.

Some horses will "lock up" and just brace against the rein pressure without backing a single step. If your horse does this and simply refuses to move after several attempts, then another plan of action is needed. Gathering up your reins as you go, step in front of him. With one hand on his the front of his nose and one hand gently pulling both reins backwards, tell him "back" and make him take at least one step. Stop all cues, praise him, then ask for another step the same way. Practice this for 4 or 5 steps. Tomorrow will be soon enough to try backing him on the long lines again.

Training your Mini to drive

In answer to several requests, I'm going to start a series on how to train your horse to drive. First, I recommend that you visit my Horse Training Secrets hubpage: hubpages.com/hub/Natural-Training-Methods-for-Small-Equine and take your driving prospect through the round pen program outlined there. This can take as little as two weeks or as long as a few months, depending upon how diligent you are in working your horse and how quickly he learns. After he is respectful, responsive, and doesn't fear either you or your tools, you can proceed to Lesson #1, below.

LESSON #1 - Introducing your horse to the bit, surcingle, and harness

We're going to assume that you've done your homework and that your horse is ready to move into driving training. Take him to the round pen or to a safe, enclosed area. I recommend a nylon surcingle or a driving harness with the crupper and breeching removed. You only want the "saddle" and girth at this phase. I also recommend a bit with a simple bridle - no blinkers yet. (See the photo below) First, check your horse's belly for sensitivity. Wrap your lungeline or a seperate lead line around your horse's heartgirth area and draw it snug with your hands. Careful - if he's ticklish he might kick or jump forward. Tug on the rope several times, see-saw it back and forth and see if you get a reaction. If so, continue doing whatever bothers him until he stands there quietly and relaxed.

To introduce him to the surcingle, simply toss it across his back. If you've accomplished the basic round pen work and have desensitized your horse, this shouldn't frighten him. If it does, do it again and again until he accepts it. Resist the urge to sweet-talk your horse and to tiptoe around him. He needs to be able to tolerate you just walking up and tossing the surcingle across his back. Buckle it snuggly but not too tightly at first. Turn him loose or work him for a few minutes on the lunge line to let him get used to the feel. If he wants to buck or run, let him, but only for this one lesson. After this, you'll correct him if he tries to buck when harnessed. Whenever he's comfortable with the girth, bring him back to the center of your work area and praise him.

Now it's time for the bit. The bridle I use is nothing more than a snaffle bit and a single strap with a buckle for adjustment. This simple rig is easy to put on and to remove. Slip the bit into your horse's mouth, being careful not to bump his teeth, and adjust it so that it barely touches the corners of his mouth. Now is a good time to tighten up your surcingle so that it fits snuggly. Work him again for several minutes while he gets used to carrying the bit. He's going to chew a lot, so don't worry about it. Whatever you do, don't put a noseband on him to tie his mouth shut. Mouthing the bit and chewing it is important. He'll eventually learn how to comfortably carry it with his mouth closed.

After you've lunged him for several minutes, bring him back to the center. Using the halter, ask him to flex his head first to one side and then to the other. Then, snap your lead onto one side of his bit and gently ask him to flex with that. Don't pull too hard or you could pull the bit through his mouth. If this happens, don't panic, just slide it back through so that it's seated properly then ask him to flex again. Work on one side until he's doing it well then move the lead to the other side of his bit and work for awhile on that side. Your goal here is to get him soft and responsive and giving you his head easily. When he's doing that, it's time to end the lesson for the day.

Repeat this lesson over the next few days. You'll notice your horse getting more comfortable in the bit (although he'll likely still be chewing it) and much softer when you ask him to yield his head.

Training your Mini to drive

TRAINING TIP:

Most horses in training, especially during a difficult session, will "regress." That means that they'll suddenly start getting worse instead of better. This is perfectly normal and not something you should worry about.

For example, I was trying to teach a young horse to accept a plastic bag dangling from the end of my lunge whip. At first, he was very frightened of it when I was bouncing it up and down on the ground about 6 feet away from it. He ran in several circles around me (with me still following him with the bouncing bag) before he was finally able to stop and face it. I stopped to release the pressure, praised him then started again. Soon, he was able to handle the bag bouncing right beside him without fear.

We had the same problem when I moved the bag in front of him. He was afraid of it again. But I knew he would be, since now he was seeing it out of both eyes, so I just continued desensitizing him with it until he lost his fear of it.

Now that he could tolerate it on either side of him and in front of him, I started swinging it high over his head and smacking the ground with it first on his right side and then on his left. He got a bit wide-eyed but this didn't really bother him too much. I stopped, praised him then moved the bag back to his right side. Suddenly, it might as well have been a cougar coming to eat him! He acted terrified of it!

But, fortunately, I was expecting him to regress at some point. It had been an anxious training session for him and his brain had suddenly kicked out of "thinking" gear and back into "reacting" gear. He ran about 20 circles around me before he finally remembered, "Oh yeah! It's just that plastic bag thing!" As suddenly as he'd started, he stopped, looked down at the bag, and took a deep breath. From then on, I couldn't frighten him with the bag anywhere near him. (I wasn't trying to touch him with it yet.)

So, when your horse "regresses" suddenly, and he will at some point, just keep on working and don't get frustrated or angry. Remember that he'll start thinking again in a few minutes and everything will be fine. Just hang in there and keep training until that happens.

Teaching your horse to set up for halter class without breaking your back.

Lots of Miniature Horses are shown in halter classes, and most people who show them squat or bend down to move their feet into proper position. Having bad knees, I can't do this. And, coming from a Quarter Horse background (where it's not kosher to move their feet by hand), I feel that it's unnecessary.

So, I teach all of my halter horses to stand squarely with mainly halter cues. I'll teach you how to do the same.

First, make sure you horse isn't too fresh or too frisky before you start this lesson. If he's been in a stall or a small pen, work him a little first either on a lunge line or in a round pen. Let him get all of the buck and play out of his system. Then, put him on a regular lead rope, preferably with a rope halter, and start the lesson.

The first thing you want to do is to face your horse and move him forward a step or two until his right (off-side) hind leg is about where you want it. In other words, it's not too far behind him or too far underneath him. Tell him "whoa" and pet him briefly when he stops moving. Stand slightly to the side and look down at his back feet. You're going to move the left (near-side) back foot gently forward and back using pressure on the halter. Your goal is to have him stop with his left hind foot about even with his right one.

At first, his steps will likely be too big. He'll step past where you want him. That's to be expected. Hold onto your patience and keep asking, trying to use smaller and smaller movements of the halter. Eventually, he'll get close to where you want him.

Close is good enough at this point. As soon as his hind foot is somewhere in the vicinity that you want it, tell him "whoa" and reward him with a brief petting. Now, you should take a step backwards and look down at his front feet. This move on your part will eventually tell your horse "we're done with the back. Now let's move the front feet."

One of his front feet will likely be either too far back or two far forward to line up with the other front foot. For the sake of this lesson, we'll assume that the left one is too far forward. Gently push backwards on the halter. At the same time, use your right foot (the one which is closest to his left foot, since you're facing him) and tap the ground near his toe. If he doesn't move that foot, and he likely won't, reach further forward with your toe and step on his coronet band right above the front of his hoof. Do it gently. The object is to make him uncomfortable, not to injure him. Keep pressing backwards gently on the halter. Eventually, he'll move that foot, even if you have to increase the pressure with your toe to make him do it.

As soon as he moves it backwards, even a little, stop, straighten up, and tell him he's a good boy. If it's still too far forward, repeat what you just did, both the halter cue and the toe-tapping or stepping on him cue, until he moves it again.

Eventually, he'll get it close to where you want it. As soon as he does, tell him "whoa," straighten your posture so you're no longer bent forward, and reward him with a little pet on the face or neck.

When you do get him set up well enough, don't ask him to stand there for more than a few seconds. Later, when he learns the cues, you can increase the time he has to stand squared up. Right now, however, it will only bore him and discourage him. And, don't try to set him up a dozen times in a row. Once or twice is enough. Then, go do something else before asking him to set up another time or two for you.

Every time that you work on setting your horse up, he will understand it a little better. He'll get quicker and quicker to respond to your cues and he'll take fewer steps forward and back to get him set up squarely. As he improves, start asking for more perfection in where he plants his feet. In other words, as he learns, "almost there" will cease to be good enough and he'll have to learn to place his feet exactly where you want them.

Once I start teaching a horse to set up, I try to do it twice every time I handle him. If I take him to the round pen to work or to the pasture to turn him loose for the day, I set him up just before taking off his halter. When I take him back to his stall or pen for the night, I set him up again just before taking off his halter. This teaches him that setting up quickly means that he'll get turned loose quickly. It gives him some incentive to do his job.